I've always had a low opinion about chains and their ability to create anything resembling gourmet cuisine. Chains, are fine for steaks and fast food, but by the very nature of their business, focus on standardization and repeat production than on the finer, more complex processes of producing great food.
It was with some trepidation, therefore, that I walked into Roy's. I noticed they had restaurants in list of cities long enough to cover all four glass doors, and the parking-lot suburban location next to an Amerisuites in Dallas did nothing to lessen the worries. Inside I was handed a large menu duly marked with the chef's specialities, which I dutifully decided to restrict my choices to.
My first choice was a ceviche. It came in a martini glass and was absolutely wonderful. Things looked up even more when their signature Hawaiian buttefirsh landed up beautifully presented, and made it after a mouthful to the list of the world's greatest meals. Ok, a few mouthfuls later euphoria headed down a little, but its still an absolutely wonderful fish that Roy Yamaguchi has done great things to. All this encouraged me into a second visit, and then a third - enabling me to run through every signature dish except the salad - and I must report that chain or not Roy's prepares excellent food. Go forth and fish without worries.