Luchi Mangsho

There's whole rash of Bengali restaurants in Andheri Lokhandwala, where I stay, so I teamed up with a newly tattooed friend to test their mettle.

The restaurants we chose were Hooghli, Hangla's and Calcutta Club. Of these, two (Hoogli and Calcutta Club) are within shouting distance of each other at the end of Oshiwara's restaurant row, while Hanglas is some distance away near Lokhandwala market. (view map)

Now the question was how to test. Kosha Manghso, the seminal non-veg dish on a bong menu seemed like ideal to try the taste test. We decided to order a plate of Kosha Mangsho from each of the restaurants, and pair it with homemade luchis.

The three deliveries were very interesting in their differences. All looked distinctly different from each other, had different prices and came in different packages. Hangla's medium brown version came in a big foil box and cost Rs 99. Calcutta Club delivered an orange version for Rs 80 while Hooghli was the most expensive - a dark, rich gravy at Rs 130.

How did they stack up? The tastiest and the best was also the most expensive - Hooghli. It was the only truly kosha (braised) mutton of the lot. Second was Calcutta Club, though neither the colour nor the consistency of the gravy was what we expected. Hangla's had the softest and largest mutton pieces, but a complete lack of chillies left it tasting bland and funny. All three were quite reasonable, but none made it anywhere close to the hallowed levels of (say) Shyambazaar's Golbari.


  1. How do you, a true Bong, rate Oh Calcutta? I personally love the food there, but is it authentic Bong?

  2. Authentic...well it's authentic enough given that no one does things exactly the same way. It is, however, distincly restaurant food. Home food would be chunkier gravies, more direct tastes, less "sophistication'. Its difficult to describe...

  3. Luchi aar kosha mangsho!! sathe ektu kacha piyaj and aam pora shorbot to wash it down...better with a glass of chilled beer ideal would be Berliner Weisse ......i would sum up with "jo khaya wo bhi nahi khaya woh bhi pachtaya"....BTW Oh Calcutta I rate quite good, but the "Luchi" surely needs to be made like luchi, crispy phulko luchi, you know, and it should'nt taste like, and look like "Bhatura"

  4. Well, i had heard a lot about Hangla's but when I ordered I found that not only is the food bad but the services is equally bad. Well they give 'authentic bengali' food without any class and quality. Men who take the orders are extremely rude and impolite. Bad service and Bad food.....

  5. An update a year later, and some stuff has changed. The winner has lost; Hooghli came out tops on the rankings and fuelled more than one of my parties, but shut shop a while ago. Hanglas became a chain, but continues to serve insipid kosha mangsho in spite of insisting that it was now much better ("new cook"). Calcutta Club has shifted to the opposite side of the road, enlarged itself and holds steady.



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