Everyone raves about food from Lucknow, but in Mumbai its really difficult to find any competent version of it outside the fivestar hotels. The Bandra Copper Chimney and Sun-N-Sand's Kabab Hut were both influenced by Ishtiyaque Qureshi into churning out impeccable nawabi khana, but one has closed and the other, though still serving good stuff, is hardly in the awesome league it once was. Apparently he's still the consultant there but while it has the recipes and techniques, the place lacks the magic.
Ishtiyaque Qureshi hasn't quite disappeared from Mumbai, though. He was always around for catering to celebrity weddings and the hallowed environs of CCI, but for the common man he was nearly invisible. Nearly, but not quite - he's been discovered hiding out in the bylanes of Bandra, running a catering and takeaway service called Kakori Hut on tiny Waroda Road. Luckily the food is as great as ever - oh those kakoris, ah that biriyani...
You wont find it unless I help you, so here it is. Go to American Express Bakery on Hill Road. Ask for directions to Waroda Road (but don't have one of their luscious lemon tarts; you will need your appetite). Or, look at the map - the marker on the left is American Express Bakery. Be warned, there's no place to sit. I'm usually on bicycle, I sit on the steps of the shop and eat off a plastic stool while chatting to the mechanics at the repair shop next door but that I suspect, is not for everyone. Much better to stand around and wait for the Kakori wraps that you can walk with, or do the whole takeaway thing. Or, buy a house in Bandra and call for delivery. I've gone at odd times, but at peak hours I hear the wait can be long.
Shop #5, Dunhill Apartments 26 Waroda Road, Bandra (W), Mumbai 400050 Call 9320090269 or (022) 6411 9211View Larger Map