Suburban shift or no, Goregaon is not a place you associate with fine dining; that does not prevent the odd eccentric from springing a surprise. White is one such, tucked away in a small lane near Goregaon station.

The most surprising part about White is the quality of ingredients used, and the execution of the kitchen. This is a place offering fresh mussels, romaine lettuce, baby fennel, imported parmesan, actual arborio, pink salmon and wonder of wonders even a whole trout - all the stuff that you usually have to look to five star dining or Indigo to find. Yet here it is, at very Indian prices and served by clueless waiters.

White's kitchen is what one should go there for. The service is as bad as your local multi-cuisine in Goregaon (not an exaggeration). Be prepared to signal wildly to get attention in a room with more waiters than diners. Be prepared to try and explain your order to servers who don't know what's on the menu and have trouble with Italian names. In short, your local multi-cuisine in Goregaon. The only reason you expect so much better is because of the kitchen.

And the kitchen is exceptional. I've already been fulsome about the quality of ingredients, but the execution is five star quality too. (which is why, really, you assume there will be five start service to go with it). The mussels came steamed in one of the best sauces I've had anywhere, the simple pannecotta was some of the most flawless I've seen, the steamed trout with fesh fennel was utterly heavenly. Most dishes are simple to the point of austerity - no nouvelle stuff here - but flawlessly executed. This kitchen could easily survive the heat in New York or London.

India is full of great food with negligible service. Think Kalbadevi's exceptional thali joints or the kabas of Bhendi Bazaar. Thats what they should do - look more like a dhaba than a five star restaurant. People will salivate over the food and ignore the ignorance of the waiters.

Bottom line, one place in Mumbai that will produce simple "heavenly" Italian food. Asparagus soup, Mushroom soup, Mussles, trout, pannecotta - so far that's my list of heavenly and I'm only on visit no. two.

The Ozone Club,
Rang Sabade Marg,
Siddharth Nagar, Goregaon (W),
Ph: (022) 28735645


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