The Well-Fed Bong

Everyone always thinks of mustard fish when Bengal comes to mind. Of course, Bengal has many kinds of fish and many uses for mustard oil (it controls dandruff too, did you know) but somehow the two are forever united in everyone's mind. When my friend landed up yesterday, that was on his mind too, so I complied. New York doesn't really have great mustard fish. Most restaurants dont want to risk the distinctive taste of the real thing, so they offer a lowest-common-denominator watered-down version; the generic fish curry with a token mustard seed floating on top. Madhur Jaffrey 's Dawat in New York claims it among its signature dishes but dont tell that to a Bengali. Most other Indian restaurants are too busy cooking tikka masala to try anything different. The tragedy is, many are owned or run by Bangladeshis who really can make the real thing. The problem; mustard fish at it's best is threateningly mustardy (some should steam through your sinuses like accidentally eat...