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Top to Bottom Italy #2: Regions and Cities Part A

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As pointed out by many a worthy, Italy is fiercely regional and the food changes quite a bit even a short distance away. However, fed all my life on a mish-mash of different kinds of Italian dishes, it took some time before I started noticing the differences. The differences are not quite as stark as India where the Punjabi finds avial inedible and a true Bengali won't come anywhere near curd rice, but they are quite distinct nevertheless. In this bicycle ride I was going only in one direction, I soon realised that repeats of many things I had loved (or missed out on) were not possible - Florentine lampredotti and Milanese risotto are about as easily available as a masala dosa in faraway Lecce. I whizzed through six regions in Italy and the one thing they had in common (other than the Indo-Swiss Express) was that, by some strange coincidence, they all had center-left governments. Indeed, with the tiny exception of South Tyrol, my trip turned out to be a perfect cleave between cente...

Top to Bottom Italy #1: Ingredients

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Great ingredients are enormously important in Italy. As my friend Silvestori pointed out, Italians start with great stuff and don’t fuss about with it like French chefs do. Italian cooking methods are simple; the wow comes from what is used rather than from sophisticated techniques and delicate procedures. Though a veteran of at least a hundred meals in this journey, I’m not trying to pretend to be an expert - even on the food of one town of Italy. This is therefore a personal and possibly wildly unrepresentative set. Even from that I have chosen only a few stars - there’s much I had that I’ve left out. Its a blog post, not a compliance document. Tomato The defining ingredient in Italian food, to my mind, is the tomato (or pomodoro). Many countries have tomatoes but somehow in Italy it is juicer, tangier, sweeter and more tomato-y than anywhere else I’ve seen. The tomato is universal in Italian cuisine - raw, grilled, dried, stuffed, puréed, roasted, in salads, sauces, sandwiches, insi...